Silencing my Dell T340 – Part 3

At long last, part 3 of my journey to try and cool my T340 with out having to listen to a hair dryer.

Here is part 1 and part 2 if you’re curious about what I’ve done so far.

I ended up getting a 3D Printer sometime after I wrote part 2 and one of the projects I had in mind was designing and printing a shroud that I could attach fan(s) to and slide over top of the heatsink in my T340 to create a better seal for airflow and get rid of the zap strap solution from part 2.

I was hoping that having a proper shroud would increase cooling efficiency, unfortunately I don’t think it did much for my overall temperatures BUT it did make it so my fan is now easily replaceable and just slides overtop the heatsink. More on that later (or just scroll to the bottom).

Here is what I came up with:

It’s hard to tell in the photos but there is a tiny lip at the bottom that snugly tucks over the base of the heatsink to prevent the whole shroud from just sliding off over time.

I used the rubber fan holders that Noctua includes with their fans and they fit very nicely in the holes. If you’re going to use a different fan I can’t guarantee the screw holes will hold up to standard case fan screws. A M4 screw and nut should work just fine though.

When mounting the fan be very careful. I printed at 0.3mm layer height and found that if I yanked too hard when installing/removing the rubber stoppers the layers would peel apart. This might be solved by printing at 0.2mm.

Here it is installed:

I used a Noctua NF-A9 PWM (92mm*92mm*25mm). I originally planned to buy two and set them up in a push/pull configuration but Amazon sold out. Turns out this was lucky for me because it appears Dells engineers left a really sweet hunk of plastic sticking up from the motherboard which prevents mounting a 25mm thick fan to the back of the shroud:

I see Noctua sells 92mm*92mm*14mm fans that might fit in there. If someone wants to donate two I will totally update the shroud design with two fan mounts and post an update. Based on my reading I don’t think a push/pull setup will benefit overall temperatures much though since this heatsink is pretty small and has a simple design.

Ok, what you probably care about, was there a performance improvement in cooling over my original zap strap design? Possibly.

I say possibly because I stupidly didn’t blow out my server of dust before starting all of this. I ended up blowing the dust out during some size checks but before installing the shroud. Here are my recorded temperatures:

  1. Transcoding a Bluray, all CPU workload with the old cooling setup, average temperature of 80c
  2. I blew the dust out of the case. You can see I ended up dropping my average idle load temperatures by 5c
  3. Point where I installed the new shroud
  4. Transcoding a Bluray, all CPU workload with the shroud installed, there is a 15c drop compared to (1) at an average temperature of 65c. This is probably partially the shroud and partially blowing out all the dust

Another discrepancy between (1) and (4) is the fan itself. Originally I installed a NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM which only runs at 1600RPM and pushes 64.3m3/h of air. The new fan is a NF-A9 PWM that runs at 2000RPM and pushes 78.9m3/h of air.

All that being said, I’m happy with ~65c at peak load and I can’t hear a thing. Idle temps seem to be roughly the same.

Now for what you’re probably here for, the STL file: Dell T340 Heatsink Shroud v1.6

You can also find it on Thingiverse.

I printed at 0.3mm. I’d recommend doing 0.2mm to hopefully make it a bit stronger so you don’t have to be as careful when installing the fan. 100% infill. You might also want to rotate the print so the fan screw holes are flat on the bed.

Alternatively you can skip ALL of this and try CJ’s suggestion he recently posted on my Part 1 which is a BIOS setting change.

Mac OS clients using Microsoft Remote Desktop are unable to connect via Remote Desktop Gateway Servers

Over the summer we build a Remote Desktop Gateway Cluster to provide remote access to workstations for some of our clients.

Initial testing worked great for Mac OS, Windows and Linux users. For Mac OS we had clients download the official Microsoft RDP App from the App Store.

Right before go-live day we updated our RDP template we provide to clients and that’s when things started going wrong for only Mac users…. and only some Mac users.

Clients using Mac OS 10.15.x and Microsoft RDP 1.14.x were greeted with this error message:

Unable to connect

We couldn’t connect to the Remote PC. This might be due to an expired password. If this keeps happening, contact your network administrator for assistance.

Error code: 0x207

I originally came cross this Technet thread when researching the issue: https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/e0f8f58f-58c9-49fc-9d48-f6bfde830f17/rdweb-authentication-error-0x607?forum=winserverTS

Turns out that didn’t apply to us. The registry entries it mentioned did not exist on our servers.

We found that rolling back the Microsoft RDP Client to 1.13.8 (the latest 1.13.x build) would solve the problem.

We also found that the latest Microsoft RDP Client, 1.14.0, worked fine on Mac OS 10.14.1 but the same was not true for Mac OS 10.15.6.

On a whim one of our Techs still had a copy of our original RDP template we used for initial testing where everything worked and found that it still worked on Mac OS 10.15.6 with Microsoft RDP 1.14.0.

We cracked open the RDP file (it’s just text) to find what the difference was:

We had added the following line:

username:s:OURDOMAIN\

In an attempt to make it easier for clients to connect by auto-populating our domain name into the shortcut.

When we removed this line from our template the problem went away.

OctoPrint Firmware Updater plugin settings for Creality CR-10 V3

Just wanted to post my settings for this plugin to save others time. I took me a little bit before I found working settings by combing through multiple forums/comment sections.

  • Flash Method: avrdude (Atmel AVR Family)
  • AVR MCU: ATmega2560
  • Path to avrdude: <Your path, you can easily find this by typing “which avrdude”  when logged into your OctoPrint via SSH. If the command is not found run “sudo apt-get install avrdude” to install avrdude then re-run “which avrdude”>
  • AVR Programmer Type: wiring

I left everything else default and am able to load firmware without issue.

Firmware Plugin Settings

Update:

I’ve also added some post-flash configuration

These gcodes do the following after a flash:

M502; Factory reset your printer
M851 Z-2.630; Set Z Probe Offset (mine is -2.630mm, yours will likely be different)
M500; Save settings
M501; Load settings

 

Marlin 2.x for a CR-10 V3

I’ve been wanting a 3D printer for a while and finally bought one. I ended up with a Creality CR-10 V3 based on a friends recommendation.

CR-10 V3

I added a BL Touch v3.1 to it and then, instead of using the Creality provided firmware based on Marlin 1.1.6 that still says “CR-10 V2” all over it, I built Marlin 2.0.6 for it with a lot of help from some friends.

Here’s my original Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/i8obod/marlin_2x_on_a_cr10_v3/

Here are my configuration files and some pre-compiled firmware if you want to use it “as is” and not have to build your own: https://git.pickysysadmin.ca/FiZi/cr-10-v3-marlin-config

I’ve just completed a print and appears to have worked just fine so I think this firmware works.

Replacing the battery in Balanzza Mini Rechargeable Scale

After my last trip to Mexico I had the desire to buy a rechargeable luggage scale so I didn’t have to remember to replace the batteries in it. When we travel we always have multiple USB chargers with us so a rechargeable luggage scale made a lot of sense. Based on the Wirecutters recommendation I looked to pickup a Balanzza Mini Rechargeable Scale (non-referral link).

I live in Canada and couldn’t find a local supplier and most online retailers in the US would have charged an arm and a leg on shipping or simply had no stock so I turned to eBay and found someone selling one, brand new condition, for a reasonable price.

I placed my order and waited the 2-3 weeks to arrive and when it finally got here it wouldn’t not power on. I figured the battery was dead and plugged it in to charge. After about 8 hours charging the charge light hadn’t switched from red to green. I was able to power on the scale and it worked until I disconnected it from the USB charging cable, then it died again. Seemed like either the charging component wasn’t working properly or the battery inside the scale was toast or had a bad connection.

The unit was brand new and in a sealed package so I didn’t feel like I’d been duped. I reached out to Balanzza support and heard nothing back after multiple attempts to contact them. Since I had nothing to lose at this point I decided to crack it open.

Sorry I didn’t take good photos of the inside initially, don’t know why:

Looks like the scale comes with a 100mAh LiPol battery (601522). These are easy enough to find on Amazon, eBay and Alibaba depending on how much money you want to trade off for time waiting for the battery to arrive.

I had some 240mAh LiPol’s lying around for a small quad copter drone so I figured I’d do a quick test with one of those to try and determine if the issue was the battery.

Very promising. This confirmed the included battery had no charge and was either toast OR the charging controller was faulty… or both. I cracked out the multi-meter and checked the 100mAh battery and it was toast, or at least toast looking enough I wasn’t going to bother trying to charge it. I also didn’t have a good way to charge it.

Space is tight inside the Balanzza and the original battery sat on the right side of the device in a very small space. Over on the left side of the scale there is a nice cavity that gave me a bit more wiggle room to put a bigger battery in but it was still too small to fit one of my 240mAh LiPols in so I was going to have to order something. Since I had to buy new batteries anyway I tried to find the biggest mAh LiPol that would fit inside the cavity on the left side of the Balanzza and came up with the 150mAh LiPol (402020) which measured 2.0cm*2.0cm*0.4 cm and would fit nicely. It seemed battery larger than that, mAh wise, was too physically large to fit.

Some quick soldering and shrink tube later:

and I ended up with a functioning scale. I also tested charging and after 1-2 hours the light went from red to green. Appears I fixed it and gained 50% more battery capacity!